Lunch at John Davenport’s is a classy affair. The dining room, mostly empty, is sprinkled with the occasional luncheoning businessman or guest. It’s also gorgeous. With stunning views from Harkness Tower and Old Campus to East Rock, a trip to JD is probably worth it just to gaze at our campus from above. The [Restaurant Week] food on its own wouldn’t do the trick.
My first course is a butternut squash soup. Though creamy, it’s served lukewarm and severely undersalted. The only real source of flavor comes from the healthy dollop of sour cream and chives dunked in the middle, as if it wasn’t creamy enough already.
Next, I order the truffle mac and cheese. The plate smells delicious and I’m not disappointed as I first start to chow down. But the more I eat, the more I feel an impending cholesterol-clogging heart-problem on its way. The portions are Macaroni-Grill-huge — in a this-is-why-you’re-fat kind of way — and the whole thing is drowning in cheese. All the same, the truffles are a welcome zing and a popping flavor that offsets the otherwise far-too-cheesy pasta.
Still, JD, please don’t ever drown delicious, rare fungi in a bucket of grated American cheese.
Dessert is cheesecake served uninspiringly with some berries thrown on the side. It looks a little plastic-y, but it’s solid — definitely the most uplifting item on the dessert menu, though, as the other two options are espresso cake and haagen daaz ice cream.
Don’t expect an explosive symphony of flavor and creativity from John Davenport’s. Expect a great view meant to distract you from the fairly average food.