WEEKEND | Restaurant Week: Kudeta

Kudeta exudes sophistication and swank from every satin-draped corner. The interior has a New York City nightclub complex; the tables are black, the chairs are black, even the chopsticks are black. The color scheme inside Kudeta’s emanates from a tall glass pyramid in the center of the restaurant, tinted by rays of blue, pink and green, with vivid pressed butterflies transfixed within.

The creative atmosphere, however, is not reflected in the Asian fusion repast.

The appetizer of spinach and cheese wontons was depressingly bland. Even the decorative side salad served with the wontons had more promise: the dressing delivered a minimally discernable kick of pepper.

My feelings toward Kudeta improved with the entrée. The spicy tuna rolls were a balanced harmony of texture and taste. The chewy tuna dissolved perfectly after just enough time and released a strong spicy wave over my tongue. The California rolls served with the tuna were less electrifying, but satisfying nonetheless.

For dessert I order the “Dream Bomba,” which although sounds heavenly just turned out to be a well-plated Klondike bar with peanut-butter ice cream. Boring dishes punctuated, on both ends, a gratifying entrée.

I would venture that Kudeta’s regular menu is more thrilling (or at least I would hope as dinner entrée prices are on average $25).

Go to Kudeta on a Friday night if your final destination is a nightclub. The atmosphere will get you in the right mood. But don’t go in expecting excitement, no matter how much the décor alludes to such.

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