WEEKEND | New Haven’s mobile food: Four Flours

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Intrepid foodie Heeseung Kim will be examining New Haven’s food on-the-go for the WEEKEND blog. Here is the first installment of her series:

Name: Four Flours

Spotted: York Street between Elm and Chapel (although no set route)

Date and time: Oct. 26, around 2:00 p.m.

Owner: Four Flours; Tony and Robin Schaffer

The lowdown: Although Robin started Woodbridge-based Four Flours about ten years ago, the eye-catching yellow truck only started roaming the streets of New Haven in May. While Four Flours doesn’t have a stationary storefront, they sell in various markets in Woodbridge, Hamden and New Haven.

Last week after hearing about Four Flours’ newest creation, the Chillwich, I braved the cold and headed over to the Cookie Mobile (as their website calls it) to check it out. On Tony’s recommendation, I got the Heath Crunch Coffee Chillwich ($3.50), which, as expected, consisted of a hefty serving of Buck’s coffee ice cream between two Heath toffee bar-studded cookies. Seriously hefty. Like a small brick’s worth of ice cream. The Chillwiches aren’t made on the spot, so I was a little skeptical about how the frozen cookie would taste. But after one bite into the sandwich, I retracted my doubts. Even when served cold, the cookie was soft and chewy, although it was almost overpowered by the sheer amount of ice cream. The ice cream pulled its weight, though, diluting the intense sweetness of the cookie with its slightly bitter coffee flavor.

Feeling ambitious (or just plain greedy), I got a cookie ($1), too. They’re baked fresh every day! How could I resist? Tony suggested peanut butter madness. This is death in a cookie for those with nut allergies but the ultimate cookie for peanut lovers: a peanut butter cookie embedded with Reese’s Pieces, peanut butter chips, peanut M&Ms, chopped peanut bits and large chunks of peanut butter cups. Yeah, it was nuts. Like the Heath crunch cookie, it bordered on dangerously sweet, but that didn’t stop me from eating the whole thing— for the sake of research.

THE SHORT AND SWEET: 1) Leave behind the calorie count and bring out your sweet tooth. 2) The Chillwich is an experience to be had, but keep it simple and go for the cookies, which — with a range of flavors and at at a dollar a piece, six for $5, and ten for $13 — are a respectable deal.

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