Sometimes a hankering for an Italian cold-cut just gets to you. Near my hometown, there’s a place called Corleone’s that serves up an excellent version called a Gondola. My brother in St. Louis raves about the famous subs offered at Amighetti’s on The Hill. Here in New Haven, it seems that you can go to almost any pizza joint and find an “Italian Combo” sub on the menu. And while they’re perhaps not as grand as the overstuffed hoagies you find in places like Philadelphia, they nevertheless satisfy the craving.

Feeling that urge, I hit up Est Est Est Pizza Ristorante earlier this week for their version of the Italian Combo sub. Best-known for their pizza, Est Est Est is a popular late-night eatery with a range of pies, pastas, seafood and subs. Their Italian Combo features a nice balance of salami, ham and turkey, and is complemented by a salty-sharp white cheese that tastes most like parmesan. The bread is an appropriately soft but substantial Italian roll, which when stuffed with the meats and cheese provides a melding of flavors that keeps you craving more. Thankfully heavy on the ingredients but light on the wallet, this foot-long sandwich is a substantial snack for the meager price of $6.50.

Est Est Est Pizza Ristorante is open seven days a week until midnight or later, keeping its ovens burning until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.